On the Rue du Domaine in Rivière-du-Loup, perched on a steep hillside, sits a timeworn blue-grey church, inside a peeling wrought-iron fence, surrounded by gravestones bearing English names. Closer to…

Barbara Amsden has divided her time between Toronto and the tiny town of Métis-sur-Mer, east of Rimouski, for decades. Pamela Andersson’s family has lived there since the 19th century. Through…